วันอังคารที่ 3 สิงหาคม พ.ศ. 2553

Chiangmai-Chiangrai

Chiang Mai, which in fact means "New City," celebrated its 700th anniversary just a few years ago, in 1996. The city was founded as the capital of the kingdom of Lanna ("A Million Rice Fields") in 1296. Under King Mengrai, the founder of Chiang Mai, Lanna unified several small kingdoms in the north, at about the same time that Sukhothai was established further south. King Mengrai founded many of the temples within the old city that are still important today.




The dynasty founded by King Mengrai lasted more than 250 years, until the Burmese captured the city in 1556. Burma held on to Chiang Mai for nearly 200 years, and to this day you can still see signs in Burmese as well as many other indications of Burmese influence. Towards the end of the 18th century, King Taksin, who regrouped the Thais in the south after the sacking of Ayutthaya, finally forced the Burmese out with the help of King Kawila of Lampang.



Chiang Mai was governed by a succession of princes who ruled the north under the protection of the Siamese king based in Bangkok. Late in the 19th century, Rama V appointed a high commissioner in Chiang Mai, but it wasn't until 1939 that Chiang Mai finally came under the direct control of the central government in Bangkok, at about the same time that the country was renamed Thailand.The original town built by King Mengrai lies within a two kilometer square moat. Within the moat was a massive city wall, of which you can still see portions at the corner as well as the reconstructed Tapae Gate. Within the walled city are quiet narrow lanes and some of the city's oldest temples, such as Wat Chieng Man, Wat Phra Singh






Chiang Mai Sights





There are at least two "must see" sights the visitor to Chiang Mai must tour. The first involves a trip up the winding road to the temple on top of Doi Suthep. The temple is a sight in itself, and its perch on top of a mountain provides a panoramic, if often cloudy, view of Chiang Mai and its environs. For the adventurous, the trip further up the mountains to the hill tribe village at Doi Pui is worth the rather bumpy ride.






















The second main sight is the city's famous night bazaar. From about 7:00 pm on to midnight, Chang Klan road between Tapee and Loh Kroh roads is lined with stalls selling a mix of handicrafts and general goods such as clothing, luggage and jewelery. The night bazaar "proper" is housed in a building about midway along the road. Its mostly more of the same, but you'll find some interesting photography shops here where you can have your picture taken in traditional costume. Its definitely an experience!



Other attractions in Chiang Mai include the Mae Rim valley, which has elephant camps, orchid farms and butterfly ranches. A visit to Chiang Mai also typically includes a trip up Borsang road to visit factories where you can see, and of course purchase, silver, nielo, bronze, leather goods, silk, umbrellas, etc. etc


Chiang Mai is probably the place we've visited most in Thailand, having made too many trips to count over the last 20 years. We have our own list of Chiang Mai favorites, the places we always go back to on return visits.



Tours to many of Chiang Mai's sights can be booked in advance through our travel partners Viator. They offer many half-day, full-day and night tours in and around Chiang Mai which you can book in advance, saving you time and hassle once you get to your destination.


Temples

Chiang Mai is rightly famous for its many ancient temples, some of which date from the late 13th century. Its arguably the best place to spend some time examining these places of worship. While the temple on Doi Suthep can be extremely crowded, most of the other temples in and around the city can be relatively deserted.


Wat Phra Sing

Located on Sam Lan Road, this lovely temple dates from 1345 and enshrines the revered Phra Phutthasihing Buddha image, afocal point for the Songkran Thai New Year festivities on April13-15. The temple compound includes the Lai Kham chapel featuring exquisite woodcarvings and northern-style murals;

Within the walls of the ancient city are several old temples of interest. Among them, Wat Phra Singh is perhaps the largest and most interesting, although it may not seem so at first glance. Upon entering the main gate, you're greeted by a large and dusty parking area. Across the lot is a large wiharn (prayer hall) with an intricately carved front. This is your first clue that there's more here than there might appear.




The altar at right is the one inside the large chapel. It's beautiful, though rather standard for Thai temples these days. We were somewhat amused by the plethora of "account books" strewn about on the right side of the altar (behind the columns in the picture we're afraid). In any temple that gets visitors, there is almost always a donation box with a guest book for you to write your name and amount donated in. Well, in this temple there were at least half a dozen boxes, each with a different purpose - maintenance of the temple building, electricity, taxes, etc. - and so each with its own account book. Upon making a donation to one or more purpose, you then have to scrabble around for the proper book to write it down in.

As you face the big wiharn, to your right is a small elaborate ho trai (library) built on a high stone base. The base has many beautiful carvings which have recently been renovated, as have the gilded carvings on the gable ends. Continuing on around the complex in a counter-clockwise direction, you'll find a drum tower set in a yard shaded by many old trees. Sometimes there's an artist or two at work here, and selling their work of course.




Directly behind the large prayer hall is a smaller building that serves as the temple's ordination hall (ubosot). This is where young monks are ordained and some other important religious events are held. The wooden building shelters a large brick and plaster altar, that I suspect pre-dates the outer building and was originally out in the open. The clues to this are the altar's shape and the fact that it sits in the middle of the building rather than at one end. The orientation of the entrances on a north - south axis rather than east - west is another clue. Like the library, the ubosot has recently been restored.





                                          
Next to the ubosot, in a line with the wiharn, is a large whitewashed pagoda (chedi). Next to it is a small but very ornate Wiharn which is worth a closer look. The outside is decorated in gold and ochre in a style which is ornate but without the gaudiness of many other temples.
The decoration inside is also quite rich. There is a brocade-like gold and red pattern on parts of the roof and back wall behind the altar. On the altar here (and not on the altar of the main wiharn) sits the Phra Singh Buddha image from which the temple takes its name. "Phra" is Thai for a priest or cleric and also used to refer to Buddha images. "Singh" means lion, but may be a corruption of the Thai word for Sri Lanka, where the image is supposed to come fromWat Phra Singh was founded in the 14th century to enshrine the ashes of King Kam Fu.From Wat Phra Singh, you might want to go on to Wat Chedi Luang, which is just a short walk away. Another important temple within the walls is the oldest: Wat Chieng Man. It's another short walk away, near the Chang Puak gate and the Thai Airways ticket office.








Wat Chedi Luang


Here, on Phrapokklao Road, is the largest Chedi in Chiang Maimeasuring m. tall and 54 m. wide. It was originallycompleted in 14 1 but partially collapsed due to an earthquakein 1545. Among other features is a magnificent Naga staircase adorning the chapel’s front porch. Wat Chedi Luang is also notable as one of the temporary abodes of the Emerald Buddha,now enshrined at Wat Phra Kaeo in Bangkok.








Wat Gate

The temple's imposing chedi.
You won't find it in any of the current popular guidebooks, but Wat Gate (or more properly Wat Gatekaram) is a temple we think is well worth a visit. Located on the east bank of the Ping River, across from Chiang Mai's city center, the temple is now at the center of a very rich historical district full of designer boutiques and some of Chiang Mai's most pleasant restaurants.
The origins of the temple are a bit murky, but it now seems to be agreed that it was founded around 1428, about 150 years after Chiang Mai's founding. The banks of the river in front of the temple served as the 'port' of Chiang Mai up until the railroad came to town early in the twentieth century. Since Chiang Mai was the center for teak and other commodities, as well as the main gateway to move goods to the southern provinces, the district became the center for foreigners coming to Chiang Mai to trade. This explains the many building styles along Charoen Rat Road around Wat Gate, reflecting Chinese, Portuguese and Indian influences.
At the center of the temple is the large chedi, capped by an elegant bell-shaped finial covered in bronze tiles oxidized to various shades of blue and green. The corners of the chedi are guarded by imposing garudas decorated with multi-colored mirrored tiles.

                                                    The rare five-gabled prayer hall (wiharn).
The temple's large main prayer hall (wiharn) is equally unusual. The most notable feature is the roof, which has no less than five gables. Most temple buildings have only three gables. Five is quite rare. The high balustrade on the front stairs also sports some very viscous looking nagas. The back of the wiharn is decorated with a mirrored tile tree similar to many Lao temples.

Beyond the wiharn is an old building now housing the Wat Gate Museum. Its a very interesting eclectic collection that is one of our favorites


                                The temple's ordination hall (ubosot), with its unusual sculpted exterior.

East of the chedi is the small and very distinctive ordination hall (ubosot). The stairs to the main entrance are guarded by coiled nagas sporting huge horns. Beside the doors, lion dogs have been sculpted into plaster panels, giving the facade a rather surreal look. Along either side, the intricately carved window frames feature panels of different animals from the Chinese zodiac under each window.




Market
Chiang Mai is a town of many markets. As the provincial capital, as well as the largest city in the north, it is the main commercial center of the region. The most interesting markets are the many fresh and food markets.




If you head north of Tapae Road along the river, you'll come to the flower market, where you'll find roses, orchids and many other cut flowers on sale. The market is at its most active late at night.
Next to the flower market is Wororot Market, one of Chiang Mai's largest markets. This rabbit warren is an easy place to get lost in, but that can be quite pleasurable.


Pickled fruits and spices at the Anusarn Night Market.Not far from the night bazaar along Chang Klan Road is the entrance to the Anusarn Night Market. The market is popular with Thais who flock there to purchase fried pork rinds and the extremely hot green chili dip called nam prik awn. There are lots of giant food stalls as well, making the market a great place to have dinner.
Strange vegetables at the weekly Hill Tribes market.




Other notable markets include Sompet Market on Moonmuang Road north of Tapae Gate, a smaller fresh market. There's also a large market on Maneenoparat Road where it meets Chang Puak Road.


Street Markets



In addition to the other markets, and the night bazaar, two other markets have become Chiang Mai 'institutions': The weekend walking streets.

Saturday Walking Street
Held on Saturday evenings, Wualai Road, the main street of the traditional silver village, is closed from where the road starts just outside Chiang Mai Gate up to Tippanet Road. The market is a lower key affair than the Sunday Walking Street market, although the overall flavor is very much the same.

                                        An old tricycle in chiangmai market


Sunday Walking Street
On Sunday evenings, the street running from just inside the Tapae Gate up to the center of the old city, along with some side streets, is closed to traffic. The streets are filled with stalls selling local handicrafts as well as foods of every kind. This market has become something of an institution, although many foreign visitors don't ever know it exists.







for decorate??



CHIANGRAI IN JULY


Chiangrai airport

in the airport



white temple just stoped raining








Glodden temple























Hell??????



rodeside selling
road from chingrai to chiangmai in july













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